(shut the front) Door County

From Milwaukee, we picked up a car and drove north into Door County, a peninsula jutting out into Lake Michigan. This area is known for its natural beauty, as well as being part of greater “dairy county” – Wisconsin is the second largest milk-producing U.S. state, after California.

Weather conditions weren’t the best during our visit for two reasons; first, it rained quite a lot, and second, winds had blown smoke from the forest fires that have been ravishing Canada across a huge area of the Midwest. While this slowed our progress around the peninsula slightly, it did leave us plenty of time to appreciate some of Door County’s man-made attractions.

Trains 🚂

On our way to Door County we stopped in Green Bay, the region’s “big city”, which happens to be home to the National Railroad Museum. Now Sara and I both like trains (well, to varying degrees), but we clearly have rivals as this wasn’t even Helen and Mick’s first visit to this museum! It told the story of early rail transportation in the USA, as well as preserving some absolutely pristine locomotives, including “Big Boy” (yes, that’s really its name). We were even allowed to clamber aboard some, pretend to operate the controls, and scare the living daylights out of some other punters who didn’t realise there was anyone in the dark carriage they were entering 👻.

Breweries 🍻

It’s been a while since Sara and I last visited the US, and I swear the breweries weren’t this good or plentiful before. The days of choosing between Coors, Miller and Bud are long gone, and instead brewery menus regularly featured beers inspired by Belgian blondes, Czech pilsners, hoppy IPAs and milk stouts. And the food wasn’t even an afterthought, either. At Copper State Brewing Co in Green Bay, we paired our brews with more delicious fried cheese curds, which went down an absolute treat. Add in some alfresco dining and the semi-regular passings of some nearby freight trains for entertainment, and it added up to a near-perfect meal. Even Mick found a place in his heart for a peanut butter stout alongside his real-ale favourites.

Nature 🌳

A short drive up the coast from Sturgeon Bay (where we were staying) was Cave Point County Park – a protected area right on the edge of Lake Michigan. Here, dense forest meets the lake’s choppy waters at a line of dramatic limestone cliffs. The absence of salt in the air was the only perceivable clue that the lake wasn’t open sea, and I’m sure we didn’t even see the water at its wildest. We stumbled over tree roots along the lakefront path to reach Whitefish Dunes, a totally deserted strip of sand along the lakeshore. The water was way too wild for swimming however, with the riptide signs and shipwreck information panels offering plenty of warnings of the dangers of taking to the water.

It was only on our way back along the cliffs that we noticed some deep cracks in the rock underfoot, many of which went all the way through to the sea beneath. Some were even large enough to lose a dog or a small child through!

Frozen custard 🍦

With Wisconsin being dairy country and all, frozen custard quickly became a regular post-lunch occurrence. In fact, when we were planning this part of the trip, it was clear that frozen custard was a very high priority for Helen and Mick, and who were we to argue?! We visited Zesty’s Frozen Custard which is housed in a 50s-style diner, and the riverside Not Licked Yet. While we loved watching the ducklings and feeding the topiary outside Not Licked Yet, Zesty’s super-creamy custard and rich hot fudge sauce stole the show.

Navigational aids ⛵️

On the east side of the peninsula at Baileys Harbor, we came across two rangelights, which together formed a navigation aid for ships arriving at night.

The rangelights were located 270 m away from each other but at different heights, with the white light shining 5 m above the red light. By aligning the white light directly above the red light, ships could be sure of a safe route in and out of the harbour, even at night. If this sounds familiar, then maybe you’re also a fan of Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons, in which Captain John and his crew use rangelights to safely enter a harbour in the dark.


Next, it was time to cross the lake to Michigan’s own Gold Coast (its eastern shore), via the historic S.S. Badger ferry.

Celebrating Summerfest in Milwaukee

We hopped back on the Empire Builder for the final leg of our Midwestern Amtrak journey, with our destination the lakeside city of Milwaukee.

This was a relatively short hop (just 6 hours), so we saved our pennies by travelling in coach class. This meant that unlike on our previous two journeys, we didn’t get a private compartment and we weren’t served three-course meals in the dining car, but we did still get a comfy reclining seat and access to the sightseeing lounge, so perfect for a daytime journey.

I’d heard lots of good things about Milwaukee (mostly about beer!) so it had been on our to-visit list for a while, but in our usual style we didn’t start planning our visit in any detail until we’d boarded the train and were well on our way. So, this is how it came about that we were about 20 minutes outside of the city when we realised that our visit would coincide with Summerfest, billed as the ‘the world’s largest music festival’. Whoops! This would explain one or two things about why we’d found it so difficult to find accommodation…

Anyway, we had found a place to stay and it just so happened to be within a couple of minutes’ walk of the Lakefront Brewery. Given Milwaukee has the nickname Brew City (because of its rich brewing heritage), this seemed like a great place to start.

When our friend Erin text us and emphatically recommended that we should go to exactly this brewery and eat the fried cheese curds served with garlic ranch, we knew we were onto a winner. Things got even better when we arrived and discovered that not only did they have a beer named Bumble Bear on tap (featuring a bear in a bumble bee costume, naturally), they also served tasting flights of sausages! Along with the excellent cheese curds, that was our dinner sorted. Of course, our food order was delivered under Oli’s American alter ego, ‘Holly’ (this happens often!), but even this wasn’t enough to upset Oli as we ate surrounded by the warm, yeasty, malty smell of brewing – this being an actual working brewery, unlike some of the places we’ve visited recently that are perhaps breweries only in name.

The following day, we began at Milwaukee Art Musuem. This might sound like an unlikely stop for us, but don’t worry – we just loitered outside! We’d read that the building opened and closed its ‘wings’ several times a day, which sounded intriguing, so we stood on the suspension bridge that led to the museum to watch it unfold. It was a beautiful piece of architecture and the movement was very cool, although extremely slow. So slow, in fact, that people were passing and we overheard them wonder what we (and a few others) were gathered for, speculating that something might be about to happen. In fact, it was already well underway! Thankfully Oli’s timelapse video captured it without you having to watch for a very long time, like we did…

After this, we wandered through the downtown area, which had a really lovely mix of mid-century and modern architecture.

Next, we made it to the Third Ward district, where we found a fun atmosphere, complete with a (somewhat gentrified) food market, lively bars, and a dog on a motorbike. It was a beautiful Saturday afternoon, but I imagine that this area was much busier than usual because of the festival in town. We embraced the festive atmosphere with some warm-up beers at Café Benelux, and then decided to head into the festival itself.

Sadly, our Milwaukee friends Alec and Sydney were out of town, but they were kind enough to give us lots of Summerfest tips and even share their tickets that they weren’t using for the weekend. We started at one of the smallest stages, watching Old Goat Skiffle Band, and then worked our way around four of the larger stages. At Sydney’s recommendation, we ended the night watching Fitz and the Tantrums, who were really good fun. Earlier in the day, we’d been baffled about how there were lines of benches in front of every stage and everyone was neatly sat down – it all seemed strangely civilised. By this point, people were actually standing on the benches and it looked a bit more like the type of festival we’d been to before!

It wasn’t just music either – we also came across wrestling (with comically unconvincing choreography, of course) and some Freestyle BMX, which was Dad’s favourite part of the whole festival. I couldn’t watch, it was way too stressful!

A 1080 tailwhip. How?!

The one thing we were really puzzled about was how this could possibly be the largest music festival in the world – it takes place in the city centre and, although I’m sure there were some areas that we didn’t explore, we still found we could walk from one end of the site to the other in about 15 minutes! Glastonbury Festival comes to mind as being rather larger…

Anyway, some Googling after the fact gave us the answer. Firstly, it doesn’t hold the record any more – its record attendance is around 800,000, while Donauinselfest in Austria has around 3 million attendees 😳! Second, Summerfest takes place over 9-11 days and the Guinness World Record in 1999 was for total attendance rather than daily people at the festival, which is much lower. (Finally, in case you were wondering, Glastonbury is classified as a performing arts festival rather than a music festival – and even so, it’s way down the list with approximately 200,000 attendees.)

Either way, Summerfest was a lot of fun – it was definitely the right decision to embrace the festival while it was in town. And overall, we absolutely loved Milwaukee – what a cool city! We’ll be back one day, but for now, it’s time to head north towards Green Bay for the beginning of our Lake Michigan road trip.

Mill City on the Mississippi

From Whitefish, we hopped back on the Amtrak Empire Builder to cross the states of Montana, North Dakota and Minnesota, before reaching the Twin Cities of St Paul and Minneapolis.

Our train was running way ahead of schedule as we steamed across North Dakota, which meant that we ended up with a one-and-a-half-hour “fresh air” break in the city of Minot. As we stepped down from the train, the conductor informed us that the only thing to do in Minot was visit a coffee stand, but that it was already closed. He wasn’t kidding either, and we soon confirmed that indeed, every other business in the city was also closed for this evening. It was quite the contrast to some of the rail journeys we took across Central and Southeast Asia, where arrivals were big business and enterprising food/drink vendors set up to meet the train. Still, we enjoyed stretching our legs along Minot’s Main Street as the sun set, with many of the intersections revealing quaint painted advertisements on the sides of big brick buildings.

We finally arrived into St Paul’s Union Depot Station the following morning – 24 hours and nearly 2,000 km after departing Whitefish and Glacier National Park. St Paul is one half of the St Paul / Minneapolis Twin Cities – two cities that grew up separately on the banks of the Mississippi river before merging into a single metropolis in recent years.

Although we’d left our train in St Paul, we were actually staying in Minneapolis. Having read that St Paul was worth a day’s visit, we left our luggage with the nice chap at the station’s Amtrak desk before heading out to explore St Paul for the day.

St Paul, Minnesota

The temperature was already approaching 30 degrees as we left the station and set off for a stroll along the Mississippi’s riverfront. In search of some respite from the blazing sun, we meandered into the leafy and very well-heeled neighbourhood of Irvine Park. Here, the houses ranged from cute and tasteful to full Fresh Prince of Bel-Air mansions. We also got our first taste of “Minnesota nice”, whereby almost every passer-by greeted us with some incredibly wholesome smalltalk.

Our improvised walking tour continued up a steep incline to reach Summit Avenue, where the mansions turned into super-mansions. Here, houses seemed to fill whole city blocks, and we were starting to tire in the heat after passing only a handful of properties!

Last on our St Paul itinerary was a visit to the State Capitol building – the seat of Minnesota’s government. The building was huge, immaculately maintained, and almost entirely empty on the day of our visit. The ground floor consisted of a central rotunda, topped by a beautiful dome and surrounded by a series of restored battle flags. The upper floor contained the House of Representatives, the Senate and the Supreme Court. Just before leaving, we took a quick peek into the basement and came across a Ratskeller – a German-style restaurant where politicians ate and became merry. We were really tickled by the drinking-related mottoes that were re-written during prohibition (last photo below), although some seemed to lose their charm during the translation!

Despite the building being free to enter, I was half expecting it to cost us our trusty penknife, but bizarrely, there were no security checks at the entrance at all. I’m starting to wonder whether we might even still be in possession of it when we make it back to London!

Minneapolis, Minnesota

Minneapolis sits in a convenient spot beside the fast-flowing Mississippi, where sawmills and flour mills once made use of the abundant hydro power. However, these industries all but moved away from Minneapolis in the mid-1900s, leaving the huge riverfront factories to fall into disrepair. More recently, the abandoned buildings (that are still standing) have been redeveloped into housing, offices, artist spaces and a city park. We spent a lovely morning diligently following a self-guided Heritage Trial along the regenerated riverbanks and learning about the city’s past.

Our heritage trail ended at the Guthrie Theatre, where we watched literally bus-loads of older folks trickle out of an afternoon matinee performance of Murder on the Orient Express. We weren’t here for a show though, but instead were keen to gain a new perspective across the Mississippi River from the theatre’s “infinite bridge” – a walkway extending straight out of the building’s fourth floor. As we emerged into the blazing sunlight, I had a sudden flashback to a conference I’d attended almost exactly 10 years earlier in St Paul. Somehow, I’d completely forgotten about visiting this very same viewing platform, although to be fair my last visit came immediately after a clearly harsh winter. The weather couldn’t have been much more different this time!

The Lonely Planet described Minneapolis as being “all in on the local brewing trend”, and it would have been remiss of us to skip this clearly important cultural experience. Our venue for the evening was the worryingly-named Dangerous Man Brewing Company, whose taproom sat right next door to a pizzeria. Slightly embarrassingly, we arrived minutes after the brewery was due to open but before they’d even unlocked the front door, so we found ourselves rattling the door handle a bit too eagerly. Still, the extensive beer menu was well worth our blushes, with hoppy IPAs and super-sweet stouts coming out as favourites. Our dinner from the neighbouring Young Joni pizzeria was similarly well executed, and served us a trio of Neapolitan pizzas to help soak up the incredibly strong beer – Sara’s peanut butter stout was 10.5%! 😬


St Paul and Minneapolis far exceeded our expectations. They largely made it on to our itinerary as a convenient place to break our 3,412 km trans-continental journey, but made for a very enjoyable few days. Having said that, Sara and Mick were a little disappointed that they didn’t get to see the famous Gateway Arch, which after much confusion, turned out to be located 543 miles away, in St Louis, Missouri. 🤷‍♂️

From the Twin Cities, we hopped back on the Amtrak Empire Builder for a third and final time to make a daytime journey to Milwaukee, also encouragingly known as “Brew City” 😋