Torino seconda parte

We returned to Turin on our way to the Cinque Terre and were keen to make the most of the afternoon and evening we had available.

First up was a very warm walk to the Mole Antonelliana – the iconic tower displayed on Italy’s 2-cent coin. After queuing for entry we were told to return in two hours for our slot to ride the lift to the viewing deck. For future reference – it’s definitely worth booking online at busy times!

With time to kill, we took a stroll across the Dora Riparia (river) to reach what was currently a very sleepy neighbourhood. Clearly, our ambition to make the most of our afternoon didn’t quite align with the rest of Turin’s population, who were wisely hiding from the afternoon heat. Still, we found a cafe in a quiet square to enjoy a refreshing local beer to pass the time. Sara enjoyed watching a man on the neighbouring table who was trying to train his pigeon friend to eat politely. It wasn’t going well.

The panoramic lift up the tower passed through the centre of the Museum of Cinema, which was both incredible and stomach-turning in equal measures. Less than a minute later, we’d arrived at the observation deck, which provided a 360 degree panorama over Turin’s rooftops, backed by the Alps on one side.

Next up, I’d managed to convince Sara that the tram was the perfect mode of transport to our next destination – Parco del Valentino. To my delight, a historic orange tram arrived, and we happily rattled along beside the river. In all honesty, I’m not sure the tram was any quicker than walking, but what it lacked in speed it made up in style.

We strolled through the park and finally found where the people of Turin were enjoying the weather – watching some live music next to the river with a bar.

We ended the day by trying the Torino speciality of an apericena – an aperitif accompanied by a colossal tagliere (sharing platter) – at Beerba. This kept us fully occupied for the rest of the evening!

This second visit to Turin was part of our transit to the Cinque Terre – 5 villages perched in a row along the rocky coastline. We’d heard so many good things that our levels of anticipation couldn’t be higher, and my goodness did it deliver.

Torino prima parte

While our 2010 carbon audit taught us that we’ll need to embrace travelling slowly in order to minimise our carbon footprint, we were also keen to start our trip with a bang. “Breakfast in London, lunch in Paris, and dinner in Turin” sounded pretty exciting, and we loved the idea of beginning the trip in Italy. However, the reality was that this would require a 5.30am start, 10 hours spent on trains, and nearly £250 spent on train tickets. Still, we decided to go for it, with the promise to ourselves that we’d slow down once we arrived in Italy.

Following our Eurostar from London to Paris, we needed to cross Paris to catch our onward train to Turin. We’d had an early start, but I was feeling a lot fresher following a three-hour nap on the Eurostar, so we opted to make the five-kilometre connection from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon on foot. We emerged into beautiful Parisian sunshine, and stopped almost immediately in Jardin Villemin for lunch and to open a few cards from our friends that we’d saved for the journey – thanks Amy, George & Erin 🥲 Five kilometres might not sound like a long way, but it certainly felt like it in the 34 degree midday heat and with our freshly packed bags! However, we enjoyed admiring the slowly changing architecture and street art along the way.

Our Frecciarossa high-speed train flew through France en route to Lyon, but then slowed significantly for the final third of the journey through the Alps. Finally, six hours and a couple of naps later, we arrived in Turin. We picked up a late-night pizza and called it a night.

We didn’t need our alarms the next morning, as we were awoken by some refurbishment of the room opposite – maybe that’s why I’d managed to get such a good rate on the reservation?! To make up for this, I headed out to collect some breakfast and coffee while Sara slept, and then together we left to spend the morning exploring Turin.

Our route to Piazza Castello took us along Via Pietro Micca, where we loved the blend of Parisian and Viennese architecture, as well as the mix of old and new trams.

We enjoyed a sandwich overlooking Porta Palatina – the red brick remains of a Roman-era gate – before hopping between shaded areas as we navigated Giardini Reali. The first half of our stay in Turin ended with a quick walk back to the hotel to grab our bags in order to jump on the 14:34 train to Aosta – a bilingual city in nestled in the Italian Alps. I say jumped because we nearly missed the train altogether. In fact, I’d only discovered the train had stopped further down the platform when Sara sent me to validate our tickets!

Overall, our route from London to Turin by train and on foot certainly took longer than a flight. However, it did save 136 kilograms of Carbon Dioxide Equivalent (kgCO2e). Not bad!

August-December 2022 plan: London to Tashkent

Our planned route roughly follows the Silk Road through Southern Europe, across the Mediterranean and Caspian Seas and onwards overland through Central Asia. This route is somewhat similar to the first three legs of Race Across the World (series 1), which was certainly an inspiration of this part of our trip.

The route

Our trip begins on 3 August 2022, when we’ll take the Eurostar from London to Paris, followed by onward train to Turin later on the same day. We’ll spend the next two weeks exploring the Gran Paradiso National Park, Cinque Terre, the Marche region, Naples and Matera, before catching an overnight ferry to Greece, where we’ll spend the latter half of August.

Upon arriving at the port of Patra, we’ll head straight to Delphi, before continuing our journey to Athens. We plan to spend the rest of August island hopping across the Aegean Sea, although our route into Turkey is less certain. We like the efficiency of continuing to Turkey by ferry, although we’re also tempted by the romance of entering Asia via Istanbul.

Istanbul will certainly feature on our itinerary regardless of where we cross into Turkey. We’re expecting to spend the best part of September exploring the country, including visiting Ephesus, Pamukkale and Cappadocia and walking part of the Lycian Way.

We’ll then spend the following few weeks exploring Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan. We’ve visited (and loved) this part of the world previously, but some of these land borders remain closed so our plans for this leg of the journey might change as October approaches.

In mid-October, we’re hoping to cross the Caspian Sea by ship from Baku to Aktau. The route exists primarily to transport truck drivers and their freight and there are no scheduled crossings, so this could be quite an adventure. If successful, we’ll then cross a short section of Kazakhstan to arrive in Uzbekistan, where we plan to stop at Bukhara and Samarkand on our way to Tashkent, some time in late November.

This route intentionally moves at a reasonable pace en route to Central Asia. The primary motivation for this is to reach Uzbekistan before the peak of winter. However, it’s likely that we’ll return to London a few times over the next year or so, and we’ll try to follow different routes in and out of Europe where possible so there should be ample opportunity for further exploration.

After Uzbekistan, we’ll see where the road takes us…